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From the late 17th century onwards, cotton was increasingly imported from India and North America.
White cotton was used similarly to linen, while brightly printed calico or chintz was used for outerwear.
The terms "Chintz" or "Zitz" come from an Indian word meaning "colorful," while "Indienne" is derived from the French word for "Indian."
Originally, chintz referred to a thin, shiny cotton fabric with a wax coating in a plain weave.
Nowadays, chintz is mainly used as a decorative fabric.
Modern processes involving resins and friction calenders create a similar sheen effect with improved durability of the fabric.
Towards the end of the 17th century, Europe began to imitate the popular Indian patterns.
Printing on cotton fabric was much simpler and more cost-effective than the elaborate weaving techniques, which is why it quickly became popular, especially among the middle class.
Some countries such as England, France, and Prussia banned the import and production of printed or painted cotton fabrics.
The colorful calicos were seen as a threat to the local damask and brocade weaving industry,
as brightly patterned fabrics had previously only been made from silk or wool as damask or brocade.
India has a long tradition of cotton cultivation.
As early as the 16th century, regions such as Bengal, Punjab, Coromandel, and Gujarat were centers of cotton processing.
Gujarat, in particular, played a significant role, with its cotton products being traded through various trade routes to the Middle East.
Cotton was considered a luxury item at that time and was highly valued, much like silk, primarily due to the labor-intensive processing involved.
The removal of seed capsules and the laborious carding of the short cotton fibers required significant effort.
It took 13 working days to obtain one pound of processed cotton threads,
while silk only required six days, linen took two to five days, with wool requiring one to two days.
Before 1750, English spinners were unable to spin strong cotton threads to produce pure cotton fabrics.
Pure cotton fabrics were exclusively made in India.
The British East India Company contributed to popularizing chintz in England in the 17th century,
despite its significant differences in thickness and dyeing ability compared to wool.
By the end of the 17th century, chintz was already popular among the affluent English middle class as a clothing fabric,
as it resembled the most expensive silk fabrics worn by the aristocracy.
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